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Western Himalayas

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Sunday, October 3

USA / Delhi, India

Depart the USA on your independent flight to Delhi, India.

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Monday, October 4

Delhi

Arrive Delhi late in the evening and transfer to the Taj Palace hotel for the night.

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Tuesday, October 5

Delhi

After a morning at leisure and an early lunch, we explore historic and energetic Delhi. In Old Delhi, narrow lanes twist and turn between leaning houses, revealing a slice of daily life around every corner. We see the magnificent Red Fort and the Jama Mosque with its tapering minarets. New Delhi is a city of wide boulevards and ordered open spaces. We visit the Raj Ghat, the cremation site of Mahatma Gandhi; the India Gate; and the exquisite Islamic 13th-century brick minaret, Qutub Minar. We return to the Taj Palace for dinner and overnight.

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Wednesday, October 6

Delhi / Leh, Ladakh

Early this morning we fly to Leh, the capital of Ladakh in the Kashmir state, and once a major stop on the Asian Silk Road. Numerous castles, Buddhist temples, and stupas speak of power and importance that endured millennia; rising behind the town is the 17th-century nine-story palace considered a masterpiece of Tibetan architecture. Our first day is spent acclimating to the high altitude. The next two nights are at the Grand Dragon Hotel.

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Thursday, October 7

Leh

Today we visit the superb monasteries that punctuate the isolated hills surrounding Leh. Hemis, built in 1630, and tucked into a spectacular valley, houses a copper statue of Buddha, a gem-studded chorten (Tibetan for stupa), and sacred thankas (paintings on cloth). After lunch we continue on to beautiful Tikse, the home of 80 monks. Vistas of the Indus Valley below are breathtaking. The Shay Palace, the summer home of the Raja of Leh, is famous for its huge copper-gilt Buddha statue.

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Friday, October 8

Leh / Alchi

We follow the Indus River this morning, enveloped by some of the most spectacular scenery in the Himalayas, and make a short detour to visit the monastery of Likir, built in 1065. We arrive in the picturesque village of Alchi for a late lunch, then explore its ancient monastery, founded by a great 11th-century translator. The views of evening sunsets here are among the most spectacular in Ladakh. We spend the night at the Alchi Resort.

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Saturday, October 9

Alchi / Lamayuru / Leh

We drive to Lamayuru Monastery today, the oldest spiritual center in Ladakh, set against its famous “moonscape”—a vast swath of windswept high-mountain desert that backdrops the building. About 150 Buddhist monks reside here. The monastery is comprised of a number of shrines with an exquisite collection of thankas, wood carvings, and statues. We return late in the day to the Grand Dragon Hotel for dinner and overnight.

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Sunday, October 10

Leh / Chandigarh

Early this morning we transfer to the airport for our flight to Chandigarh via Delhi. Upon arrival we drive to the Kikar Lodge, surrounded by 1,800-acres of Himalayan wilderness outside Nupur Bedi. Time permitting enjoy a walk to search for resident bird species such as partridges, bulbuls, babblers, and peacocks.

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Monday, October 11

Chandigarh / Palampur

We depart for Palampur after breakfast, stopping first at one of India’s holiest Sikh temples, Anandpur Sahib. Following lunch our drive takes us into the Kangra Valley, its undulating terrain carpeted with pine forests and terraced fields. Historic Kangra town overlooks a series of waterfalls and is famous for its ruined fort and beautiful temples. A huge 1905 earthquake destroyed the opulent 11th-century Bajreshwari Devi Temple; completely rebuilt in 1920, it remains a place of pilgrimage. The evening in Palampur, time permitting, is free to explore the grounds of our hotel, the Taragarh Palace. Or, visit the Tashi Dzong Monastery with views of surrounding tea gardens and a handicrafts and carpet center.

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Tuesday, October 12

Palampur / Dharamsala - McLeod Ganj

Named after David McLeod, the Lieutenant Governor of Punjab when the hill station was founded in 1848, McLeod Ganj is now the settlement of Tibetan Buddhists who sought refuge here in 1960. It is the current home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Our exploration begins at the Namgyal Monastery, founded by the third Dalai Lama in the late 16th century, and now home to more than 180 monks. The multi-faceted complex includes the Nechung Monastery, seat of the state oracle; the Tibetan Medicine and Astrology Center; and the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts. We return to Taragarh Palace for dinner and an overnight.

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October 13–14

Palampur

We spend two days exploring all the wonders of Palampur—colonial architecture, temples, and magnificent views are the hallmarks of this hill town. Drive through the tea gardens of Palampur, known as the tea capital of northern India. Visit St. John’s Church, the Tse-chokling Monastery, and the Tibetan Children’s Village. Enjoy lunch at the Norbulingka Institute and then tour this impressive facility named for the Dalai Lama’s lovely summer residence—Norbulingka means “jewel garden.” We also visit the Dolma Ling Nunnery and Institute of Buddhist Dialectics, home to about 200 nuns. One evening we participate in the Tara puja, a lamp-lighting ceremony where nuns prepare hundreds of small lamps arranging them symbolically to honor the Buddhist deity Green Tara. Overnight at the Taragarh Palace.

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Friday, October 15

Palampur / Pragpur

We depart for historic Pragpur this morning arriving at our hotel, Judges Court, for lunch. From here we set out to explore Garli-Pragpur, a panoramic area that is home to India’s oldest ruling lineage. Fifty-two clans settled the peaceful hills and towns here; in the center of Pragpur they built elegant havelis—mansions and Italianate-style buildings—among lovely slate-roofed houses that line cobblestone streets. The local market, shops, and galleries offer numerous varieties of local crafts, from silver jewelry and hand block-printed fabrics to beautiful woven wools. Dinner and overnight at our hotel.

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Saturday, October 16

Pragpur / Shimla

We depart after breakfast and drive along the Beas River. After lunch in Bilaspur we continue to Shimla, the state capital of Himachal Pradesh, nestled among hills and surrounded by thick cedar forests and apple orchards. This former summer capital of India, when under British rule, was known as “queen of the hills.” Late this afternoon we arrive at our hotel, Wildflower Hall, situated at 8,250 feet, and our base for the next three nights.

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October 17–18

Shimla

The stately English architecture—including Gorton Castle, majestic Christchurch, and the formal Viceroyal Lodge on Observatory Hill—continue to lend Shimla its colonial aura. A pleasant traffic-free walk up the hill to Scandal Point reveals the social hub of the town; its colorful name refers to the elopement of the British Commander-in-Chief’s daughter with the Maharaja of Patiala.

This evening we join participants in the Dussehera Festival—a fabled event. The festival celebrates the victorious homecoming of Rama, the epic hero of the Ramayana, who, after fighting a great 10-day battle, has triumphantly cut off the head of the demon Ravana who had abducted his wife. The centerpiece of the festival is a lively folk play, retelling the story with music and spontaneous dialogues. Colorful processions, graceful Natti dances and songs, and a trader’s bazaar are all part of the grand show. The following day is at leisure to enjoy walks around Wildflower Hall, go horseback riding, or enjoy the spa.

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Tuesday, October 19

Shimla / Chandigarh / Delhi

We depart Shimla this morning and drive to Chandigarh, “The City Beautiful,” and India’s first planned city. Several renowned architects and urban planners, Le Corbusier among them, designed the city, its parks, and buildings in the 1950s. After lunch here we transfer to the airport for our flight to Delhi; dinner and overnight at the Radisson Hotel.

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Wednesday, October 20

Delhi / USA

Depart Delhi on independent flights homeward.

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