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On the Wild Edge of Adventure

Mike Messick, July 2009

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The Kermadec and Chatham Islands are some of the wildest, most geographically isolated, and least visited places on Earth—which is why they’ve been calling to me ever since I first spotted them on the map.

Nearly two years ago our planning team gathered in Seattle for our annual, where-should-we-go-next brain-storming meeting. It seemed that every year we stared longingly at those outpost New Zealand islands that seem to float, untethered, in the vast expanses of southern Oceania. But there simply hadn’t been a way for us to connect the dots, as it were, to build an itinerary around them.

For whatever the reason—let’s just call it harmonious convergence—taking up the challenge of making that dream trip happen seemed like a mantra at that meeting. First, picture a group of excited explorer-types obsessing over a tiny corner of the map. Then ornithologist Peter Harrison said: “If we began with a couple of days in Fiji, we could sail southward, secure permits to go ashore in the Kermadecs, and see some of the amazing plants and endemic birds there…” Jack Grove, marine biologist, jumped in with: “And we can include some fantastic snorkeling off Kadavu, Fiji—there are at least 800 fish species there—and there’s the pelagics, including huge spotted grouper, that live off Raoul in the Kermadecs…” And Shirley Metz, photographer, added: “We can also spend time on New Zealand’s North Island for a great Maori experience before we sail to the Chathams…” And from then on the route unfolded on its own, through the stunning sub-Antarctic Islands—to Bounty, the Antipodes, the Aucklands—and back to the mainland to cruise into Fiordland National Park. As I configured the timings of that suddenly very possible voyage, splitting it into two sequential itineraries, I realized that “Yes, we can make this happen!” And then, I offered my services as Expedition Leader.

There was never any question that the Clipper Odyssey would be the vessel to use. We also agreed that we would call on Captain Peter Fielding—who has masterfully sailed the Clipper Odyssey on many a Zegrahm voyage—to take the helm. Recognizing the uniqueness of this adventure, Peter, Shirley, and Jack also decided not to miss this once-in-a-lifetime chance and signed on, then and there, as leaders.

Obviously it would be impossible to describe all the highlights of the trip, but here is a summary of what has long grabbed my attention.

I’m intrigued by the fact that the Kermadecs, New Zealand’s northernmost territory, are one of the few sub-tropical island groups in the world and make up a distinct eco-region within Oceania; we’ll feel that shift in latitudes as we sail south from Fiji. And, because Zegrahm was able to obtain special permits to go ashore on Raoul, we’ll be among the lucky few to step onto this volcano-sculpted wonderland. The islands were first settled by the Polynesians and New Zealand Maoris. Other seafarers joined them, followed by a multitude of international whalers, including Americans. Today, New Zealand’s Department of Conservation runs the islands and there are only four permanent residents—a laudable measure to insure the regeneration of native plants and birds for future generations.

The Chatham Islands sit nearly 500 miles due east of Christchurch. Similar to the Galápagos in their isolation, the animals, birds, and botanicals here evolved in adaptation to their environment. The flowering nikau palms and native forests harbor 29 plant species found nowhere else. For those who love birds, the Chatham Island black robin, rescued from extinction, is one of the great conservation stories of all time. And, as we cruise by Zodiac around Pitt and Pyramid Islands, it will be a thrill to see the world’s last remaining 11,000 Chatham Island albatross. I’m especially looking forward to meeting the island residents and hearing the stories of the ancient Moriori people who arrived from Polynesia nearly 1,000 years ago and built their lifestyle around the practice of pacifism.

I’d be hard-pressed to find an expedition more tantalizing than our Wild Edge adventure. I know I can speak for Peter, Shirley, Jack, and Captain Fielding when I say that I will be counting this as one of life’s great travel experiences—and one worth the wait. Come and share it with us!